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Allele · Vol. I · Shade DNA · Field GuideFirst edition · 2026

For the
undertone the
industry refuses
to commit to.

A field guide for the in-between undertone — the one foundation lines forget, color seasons gloss over, and Pinterest tries to flatten into “warm or cool.” Twenty-eight sections. Five olive presentations. The foundation oxidation diagnostic. Four worksheets. Yours forever.

Get the survival kit · $24PDF · Instant download · One-time purchase
28Sections
5Olive Types
4Worksheets
1Field Guide
Field Guide · Olive Undertone
The Survival Kit
Olive5 TypesWorksheets
“Olive is not warm. Not cool. Not neutral in the way most shade ranges mean neutral. It is its own quality.”
For readers whooxidize foundationread khaki by 3pmdoubt their season
§ 01

Why nothing
looks right.

Three structural reasons
  1. One · Foundation lines optimize for the middle of the market.
    Most shade ranges are built on a warm-to-cool axis with maybe a “neutral” column wedged between. Olive sits on a separate axis — green-yellow against pink-blue — and most shade ranges don’t have a dedicated column for it. So olive skin gets sorted into “warm” (and turns orange) or “cool” (and turns gray).
  2. Two · Olive skin oxidizes foundation differently.
    The same chemistry that gives olive skin its quiet green cast can interact with pigments and oils in foundation and shift the finish over the course of the day. A shade that looked right at 11am can read pumpkin by 3pm. This is not your imagination. It is a real, observable pattern — and the kit gives you a test for it.
  3. Three · Most color season frameworks are built on warm-vs-cool first.
    The classic 12-season system was designed in an era and a market that treated olive as an edge case. Olive types get pushed toward seasons that almostfit — usually a Soft Autumn that’s slightly too warm, or a True Summer that’s slightly too cool — and spend years wondering why their “season palette” feels a little off.
§ 02

The five
olives.

Most readers see themselves in two
01 / 05
Cool Olive
Gray-green · #A8956F
Closest seasons
Soft Summer · True Summer

Veins read more blue than green. Silver looks correct; gold reads brassy. Often confused for True Summer.

02 / 05
Warm Olive
Gold-green · #B89868
Closest seasons
Soft Autumn · True Autumn

Skin reads sun-kissed even indoors. Gold looks gorgeous; silver looks cold. Often confused for True Autumn.

03 / 05
Neutral Olive
Quiet middle · #B09775
Closest seasons
Soft Autumn / Soft Summer overlap

Both gold and silver work; neither sings. The hardest type to shade-match at counters.

04 / 05
Muted Olive
Low-chroma green · #9D8E72
Closest seasons
Soft Summer · Soft Autumn

Cool colors wash you out; warm colors look loud; in-between dusty shades sing. Almost always overdiagnosed as the wrong soft season.

05 / 05
Deep Olive
Concentrated green · #6D5A42
Closest seasons
Dark Autumn · Dark Winter

Concentrated melanin layered over the olive base. Light shades chalk; dusty shades go flat; deep saturated shades come alive.

§ 03

What’s
inside.

Twenty-eight sections, seven parts
Part One
Why olive is its own thing
  • · Welcome
  • · The Olive Problem (why nothing looks right)
  • · The five presentations at a glance
Part Two
The five olives
  • · Cool Olive
  • · Warm Olive
  • · Neutral Olive
  • · Muted Olive
  • · Deep Olive
Part Three
The test battery
  • · How to set up your light
  • · Vein, jewelry, and white tee trio
  • · The foundation oxidation diagnostic
  • · The 'greenest hour' observation
Part Four
Season shortlists
  • · The olive-to-season map
  • · Per-olive season shortlists × 5
Part Five
The makeup shade map
  • · Foundation starting-point library
  • · Concealer, blush, bronzer
  • · Lip and eye
Part Six
Wardrobe
  • · The olive-safe neutral core
  • · Colors to audit (and what to swap in)
Part Seven
The worksheets
  • · Worksheet · The olive audit
  • · Worksheet · The oxidation diary
  • · Worksheet · Your capsule color map
  • · Worksheet · The shopping filter card
§ 04 · The kit

Bring a mirror.
Bring patience.
Stop guessing.

One-time purchase. PDF download. Yours forever. No subscription, no app, no membership — just the field guide you wish someone had handed you the first time a foundation turned khaki on your jaw.

Get the survival kit · $24
PDF · Instant download · via Gumroad
Not sure if you’re olive? Take the free Shade DNA quiz first →